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I've got a few guitars on the go that are due to get stainless frets. This will be my first time working with stainless. I'm in the process of ordering some new fretting tools and getting setup for these first jobs. A pair of heavy duty side cutters and the LMI fret tang removal tool are on the top of my list. I've done lots of work with Gold EVO wire and use mainly diamond tools for leveling and re-crowning the EVO wire. I'm assuming diamond tools are also the best bet for working with stainless. I'm looking for any recommendations on tools or tips on working with the wire from those who use it regularly.

Thanks

Josh

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
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House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
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I've been using the stew-mac tang nipper no problem with stainless. I nip 1mm at a time though, then I've been using a file to smooth the underside.

That LMI fret tang removal tool looks a lot faster and easier. Much more affordable than the old one.

I've been waiting for them to come out with their new one.

As far as advice goes, I use steel regularly for refrets and also on my custom guitars.

It helps to radius the wire closely to the fret board, and I use these bits to prepare the slot: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... r_Bit.html

It widens the slot enough to not get fret compression with larger tangs such as on the jumbo stainless wire, and it also widens the top of the slot for easier fret removal in the future, although that's more an issue with the nickel silver wire.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

I use the Stew Mac tang nippers also on SS without any problems. I also use standard Sears diagonals to cut the wire and Sears nippers that I ground flat to cut the ends after frets installed.
Also, as mentioned, pre radius the wire.

Chuck

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(not a frequent poster... hello all)

If you've worked with EVO, then you're prepared for the difference in springy-ness. The way the EVO is more picky about radius (on both the fret and the board) and bending out of shape during hammering is even more so with stainless - where with nickel silver (especially Dunlop) you might be able to force it to do your bidding, SS will give you lip. Once you are aware that it is capable of being far more stubborn, it really isn't as bad.

Tangs are often wider, and as such like wider slots.

The wire is harder on cutters than files, in my experience. The diamond files last longer if you don't let them get too warm (that's when the diamond pieces dislodge). If you do any grinding with power tools, remember that SS is a terrible conductor of heat, and like stainless steel cooking pans the heat will get away from you and can burn fingerboards. If you're not going at it industrial strength, you'll probably be fine.